“I’m really into these peas.”
This was the first unsolicited comment from my dinner companion. As a belated birthday present, my dear friend Jules took me out to dinner at Prune. Located in the East Village, this small establishment opened in 1999 and has been welcoming diners ever since. Best known as a brunch destination, the crowds on the weekends are infamous. Despite a standard two-hour wait patrons are relentless. With an extensive Bloody Mary selection it is no wonder New Yorkers come here the morning after a long night. Little has been written about the dinner menu and after one meal, it is clear that the reputation of Prune far exceeds the cuisine. Chef and owner Gabrielle Hamilton fails to offer any standout dishes.
On Thursday night at 6:30 the restaurant is filled with a casually dressed crowd. The space is small with floor to ceiling windows and large mirrors flanking the two side walls. There is an open kitchen where several female chefs are hard at work. The ambiance is deceptively airy and spacious. Any attempt to leave your seat during the meal results in an awkward shifting of the table and a tight squeeze between other diners. It is best to commit to your seat for the duration of the meal.
Since this was a celebratory dinner, drinks were in order. The wine and cocktail list have all the standards. Sadly the Pimms Cup fell flat, tasting more like an overpriced gin and tonic. Papadams, a light crispy lentil chip are complimentary and great to nosh on when perusing the menu. If the short list of appetizers are not enough, the bar menu has additional small bites that are also available. The roasted bone marrow with parsley salad is the perfect way to start the meal. The portions are more than enough for two to three people. Served with tiny spoons, the marrow spreads easily on the toasted bread. Salty, velvety, and crispy it encapsulates the fare at Prune.
Chef Hamilton’s culinary style stems from a tumultuous past filled with a cast of unruly characters, much of which has been documented in her memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef. In the book she describes the vision behind Prune: “There would be no foam and no ‘conceptual’ or ‘intellectual’ food; just the salty, sweet, starchy, brothy, crispy things that one craves when one is actually hungry.”
The restaurant offers several daily specials. During my visit there is a soft shell crab, lightly dusted with curry powder and deep fried. The plate comes decorated with a mound of watercress. The flavors work well together and the juices from the crab serve as a savory and impromptu dressing for the watercress. Jules opted for the roast pork shoulder, littleneck clams and minestra verde. The pork shoulder was tender however the overall the dish was too salty. We shared a plate of peas with mint and butter. An ode to Spring’s arrival, it was by far the hit of the night.
Prune has an eclectic dessert menu from a Calvados omelette to candied pumpkin and sugared “hay” with Greek yogurt and honey. Several items may seem unfamiliar to diners, unfortunately the waiter’s response of “It’s pretty much exactly what it says,” does little to clarify any confusion.
“I’m really into this mascarpone ice cream,” says Jules. Needless to say we played it safe and got the sundae with mascarpone ice cream and salted caramel croutons. It was everything a dessert should be, playful, decadent and extremely satisfying.
Overall the simpler dishes garnered the most enthusiasm. But a side of peas and an ice cream sundae are not enough to warrant a return visit. Prune is unapologetically no-nonsense from the service to the food. The menu hits all the flavor profiles Hamilton envisioned but fails to deliver in execution. Far from a quintessential New York establishment, Prune is just another lackluster, overpriced restaurant coasting solely on its overhyped reputation.
Chiang & Chong take NYC 